Triumphs of JMH

UDSALG

2012-01-31T15:35:00.004Z

Bjarne med flere sælger ud af lageret af Triumph-dele:

Se det hele her:
stumpertilsalg.blogspot.com

Alle dele befinder sig i Nordsjælland - kontakt Nikolaj på 6014 4875 eller undertegnede
på 2380 5075 hvis der er noget du er interesseret i.

Alle priser til forhandling :-)

Front lower valence repair

2011-12-08T19:49:00.002Z

Very low temperatures in the workshop so doing very little for the time being.

Did start repairing the damage to the lower front valance. A few pictures to follow; still need to clean up the new nose cone, prime what is behind, remove all sealer etc.... before I can weld it in.

Parts for sale - dele til salg

2011-10-12T13:51:00.007Z

Need to get rid of these items:
For mk 4/1500 spitfire:
- Heater/varmeapparat. Good condition/god stand.
- Boot lid/bagklap. Need small repair/lidt rust i ene hjørne indvendigt, kan laves mod "merpris!".
- Wiper motor/viskermotor 2-speed, as new cond./som ny.
- Front inner weel arch, NOS/Stanpart panel for spitfire mk 4/1500/Front inderste inderskærm. Original NOS Stanpart / BL panel, som idag kun fås som repro til ca. 50 pund i UK. Venstre side, inderst (ind mod motor). Passer også til mk 1/2/3 - (eneste der er at få).

For mk 1/2/3 spitfire:
- Original Ashley bonnet, good condition, minor repair needed to gelcoad/Original Ashley fronthjelm - enkelte smårevner. Der følger skærmforøgere med.
- Complete steering for RHD spitfire - used./komplet tandstang til højrestyret spitfire. Brugt.

All:
Lots of suspension parts for free if you need!

Contact /kontakt: jmhaugaard - gmail dot com

Running on EDIS

2011-10-09T18:29:00.007Z

Converting to Mega Jolt is nearly completed - engine started right up on the EDIS (limp home mode), just need to connect the MJ lite unit and load a map.
Engine sounded very quiet.
Mega Jolt lite and EDIS 4-unit (EDIS off a Ford).
Mounted next to the clutch pedal assembly.
Didn't have all connectors as my order from Autoelectricsupplies in the UK hasn't arrived yet, so will have to tidy up the wiring later.

Some better filters needed - going Dellorto later so will be something temporary.

New engine

2011-09-27T11:49:00.010Z

New engine!

It purrs like a cat - but sounds like a tractor. Did help, after I connected the down pipe - must have forgotten it, as I changed the prop shaft.

Had a good run last sunday - pictures at Dirchs blog here:

http://glads-triumphs.blogspot.com/2011/09/lvfaldstur-med-dtak.html

Had some trouble getting the timing right - need to finish the mega-jolt conversion!

Then - solved a mystery this week.

Always wondered what head I had on the old spitfire engine - couldn't find any references to casting no. 307240 - and when I asked around, no one knew.

Then on the UK forum Triumph Torque (Club Triumph), some one had problems with fitting a new valve gear on the same casting as rocker arms didn't line up with the top of the valve stems.

Canley Classics had the answer:
"Used for a very limited period early in 1300 FWD, and 13/60 production, and very rare.

It has different valve spacing (shared with 70X head) and as a consequence used 'special' rocker pedestals."

Rare - hmm. Sounds nice, but it's just ... useless. Needs new rocker gear, valve cut etc.
Hasn't got any value (money sense...), so for now it's resting on the old engine and I am happy as I got a good s/h head with the new engine.

Canley calls it the "special' one!

I'll get that rocker cover painted black

2011-09-13T06:22:00.005Z

Engine in. New fuse- and relay box mounted, OD fitted, new rad....
Just need a few hoses and all the little odds and ends done.

Checked the oil pressure yesterday - had problems with priming the new oil pump and managed to cover half of the floor in fresh engine oil before it was fine.

Nice smell though :-)

And yes, rocker cover will have to change colour.

Did a few things with the other spitfires too, as I finally had all suspension parts etc blasted and metallised. And picked up 8-10 kg of plated pieces - no s/h bolts in the suspension though so some of the bolts will be binned.

Mega Jolt

2011-07-21T08:31:00.002+01:00

Spot the difference :-)

Use your local!

2011-07-20T07:39:00.007+01:00

Working on the new small crank 1300 engine, I discovered a minor problem. In a moment of insanity I had bought a duplex chain conversion kit from Canley. IMHO waste of money, as I am going to mega-jolt anyway, and did it fit?

In one word: NO.

Need about 0,3-0,4 mm shims behind the crankshaft sprocket.
And chain far too tight.

Do have another chain though - german quality bought years ago. But absolute no shims found on this and a few other dismantled engines. And no UK suppliers had any for the small crank 1300 in stock.

But this time google was my friend: - and voila: http://www.morrisminor.dk/ did have NOS shims in 0,006'' - part no. 027138. Had them in my mailbox in less than a day.

They supplied a LHD MC-repair panel for the spitfire rebuild http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.com/2009/02/made-in-sri-lanka.html a few years ago. No one else did this for the LHD-cars.

Credit and thanks to Claus Hagstrøm at Nordisk Morris minor lager :-)

For Leyland...

2011-06-23T14:47:00.005+01:00

Needed a valve spring compressor - and did find this:

Bought cheap in an auto parts store - long time ago I have seen tools marked "for Leyland" :-)
Made in Taiwan though...

Spend the evening in the workshop yesterday and made a bracket for the mega jolt sensor...
...and prepared sump for baffle plate.

More engine

2011-06-20T22:17:00.004+01:00

Rear engine plate on. And no - its not made out of aluminium...
Front plate, and sealing block (yes, shitty aluminium...) mounted, and extra holes drilled in the front engine plate as the sealing block is three-bolt part from a late engine.

Both rear and front plate primed with 2 pack etch primer.

Just need to fit timing gear and make some sort of baffle plate in the sump :-)

Cylinder head will stay off until the short block is in the car.

New door

2011-06-18T16:45:00.002+01:00

New door skin on left hand side door. Had to weld in a new door bottom as the one made by the PO was ... ugly...
Still need some minor adjustments, otherwise - imho - perfect :-)

Should have used one of the pre cut skins for a mk 3, but Nick had this one at the workshop, and had no need of it. Hate making holes!!!

Resting on the body tub - resting upon the wall...

On with the engine

2011-06-13T18:22:00.003+01:00

Did some work on the new Spit engine - couldn't get any oversize trust washers in and didn't have any standard size - so Nick helped me out with some Vandervell - free of charge ;-)

In!Rear oil seal housing mounted - did remember the copper washer on top bolt.
New 'County' oil pump needed some grinding to fit, but otherwise within spec.

Crank in and rear core plug fitted with sealer.
Just need to fit the front alu block, sump, cam followers and front- and rear plate.

Cylinder head will have to wait until engine is in the car.

Engine rebuild

2011-05-08T19:46:00.005+01:00

Still need to rebuild the engine for my first spitfire - has been standing 2 years now without doing anything to it.

Fitted first two pistons this afternoon - hopefully it could be back in the car at the end of this month.... hahahaha

Bring on the megajolt!

2011-04-16T10:08:00.004+01:00

http://triumph2900.blogspot.com/2011/04/we-have-lift-off.html
Working on it!

Hmm - witch one is red and witch one is purple...?

As good as it gets

2011-04-11T22:09:00.003+01:00

Finished chassis. Some pictures here:

Simple living

2011-04-02T12:33:00.004Z

Haven't worked on the car for a while, enjoying life just like one of my cats :-)

BUT - got an s/h engine for the Estate - came out of rusted out 2000 mk 2 saloon. Good compression, but using a bit of oil. No rattle though.

Chassis...

2011-03-15T15:22:00.003Z

More work on the chassis - repair on the front.

Just need to fix the rear. Then frame is off for sand blasting and metallisation with zink.

More chassis repair...

2011-03-01T20:01:00.004Z

On with the chassis repair.
Someone did try to replace the rhs outrigger with a new one, but not enough penetration of welds, as I could chisel most of the old welds off. Didn't trust the repair on the frame either.

Upside before:

Down side after...
Repair to the front gussets. Still need some cleaning and welding at the lower edge.

New s/h nose cone panel for the Estate. Nick started cleaning off old sealer and rust. Some minor scratches to the panel - must have been hit at the front in the past. Usable though, but need work.

Chassis work part II

2011-02-18T10:53:00.003Z

On with the chassis. Lhs outrigger and frame damage.
Replacing rust with new 1,5mm mild steel on the top frame (under outrigger).

Underside even worse and full of remains of earlier attempts to repair rust damage.

Didn't take a picture of the lower frame repair before I had welded in the new outrigger. But its there!!!

On with the front gussets and underside of front rail/bonnet hinges.

Rhs outrigger need some attention too - it has been replaced buy some PO, but as the welding looks really bad, I don't expect it to be properly repaired under either.

Chassis rot

2011-02-16T19:46:00.006Z

After finishing the GT6 rear valance, I did some work on the chassis for the spitfire. Rot all the usual places: Rear frame under the shock towers, bonnet hinges, front gussets and outriggers.

Outriggers are very nasty - look at the condition underneath.
Small hole at top. Big one on underside. How are yours?

wipe my b.....

2011-02-16T19:36:00.003Z

Finished work on the rear valance on Nick's GT6. Still need to weld the lower trim finishers, but will have to wait until they are zinc plated or zinc metallised. And another turn with hammer and dolly on the upper panel too.

ENGINE

2011-02-13T20:35:00.004Z

Finally, got an engine.

Helping dismantle a rusted out 2000 mk 2, that will donate an engine to the estate.

Thanks a lot to Dirch, Daniel and his father.

On with the Estate

2011-02-11T21:22:00.006Z

Trial fit of s/h nose cone for the Estate - still need a lot of trimming all way round.

Worst part is the top panel next to the nose cone, as it took its part of the crash. Will need some work to get accurate.

Lower 'stone gard' /front valence need some work too - will have to open it up and weld a patch in, as the panel has been 'rechaped' a lot.

Nick did a lot of work on the weel arch, removing old sealer and wax oil. Only surface rust discovered, but some earlier welding done on the sills need to be examined more carefully.

A heap of s**t...

2011-01-31T12:28:00.003Z

Just a bucket with old rusty metal, ready for sand blasting and electro plating.

Didn't take any new pictures from the work on the Estate, but are preparing to weld ind the s/h nose cone.

Work on the Estate

2011-01-14T14:38:00.002Z

While welding on the rear valance on Nick's GT6, he started taking off old stone ship and wax oil from the 2000 Estate. Need a good clean paint and a complete front suspension rebuild. Otherwise solid.

Good to be back in the workshop :-)

The BIG crash

2010-10-13T11:21:00.004Z

NO, not a new one - but what was close to end the life of another 2000 Estate.

This is how it looks behind the nose cone panel

Time for a nose job

2010-09-23T12:25:00.005Z

Got started on the Estate - need to cut off the damaged nose cone panel and get an overview of the damage behind.
The s/h nose cone is going to be shot blasted and zink coated with a lot of other spitfire stuff, before welding in.

Some work done to Nick's GT6 too:

Copy of original early radioplate

2010-08-24T13:45:00.003Z

The end

2010-08-17T20:27:00.008Z

Bonnet repair has come to an end...

Ready for a good clean and then - paint.

Next job will be replacing the rear valance on Nick's GT6:

Looks like the lip for the boot seal was cut off when the spitfire rear valance was used on the GT6.

More bonnet destruction

2010-06-23T13:14:00.002+01:00

Getting closer.

Just need a little tweeking (D-panel) and some minor (!) repair to the wheel arch panel.

Bonnet destruction part IV

2010-06-14T20:11:00.004+01:00

More progress - right hand side wing ready for welding in. Just need to make some major repair on the inner wing first though...

Sad end to a great car...

2010-06-12T18:32:00.005+01:00

- But it will help another one staying alive - so once again, 1000 x thanks to Jørgen for helping me out with parts and to Nick - the demolition man :-)

Nose cone panel, bumper and grill. To be used on the Estate.

Megajolting Part I

2010-06-09T21:24:00.004+01:00

Done some welding - after having my welder repaired with a new rectifier.
Trigger wheel is a 5.125" wheel (130mm) - welded to a standard mk 3 spitfire pulley.
With a little luck you can do this with a standard MIG (with a lot of current)...

Pulley will go with the crank and clutch/flywheel to be balanced at the machine shop before I start reassembling the engine.

Bonnet destruction part III

2010-05-20T20:27:00.003+01:00

While welding gear awaiting repair or to be replaced, I started cutting out the rhs front wing, lower nose panel and d-plate. Original bonnet strengthener panel in better condition than on the left side; some odd repair on the wheel arch to be redone.

RIP....?

2010-05-20T20:25:00.002+01:00

Prepared for the last welding on the lhs wing when my beloved Migatronic welder died.

Did the usual trial and error; but if not the transformer, its the rectifier.... Final diagnose i beginning of next week.

If then - In memory of a good friend :-(

First half

2010-05-17T22:56:00.004+01:00

Soon to end lhs repair on the bonnet. A few pics:

Mad welders guide to ... DIY bonnet repair...

2010-05-08T19:18:00.027+01:00

First - start with the worst bonnet money can buy you :-)
THEN - use a few weeks removing all wax oil, sealer, oil, under seal you name it. AND you have a wonderful starting point for a few weeks work....

Bought this one knowing it needed a lot of work.

My good friend Nick did all the dirty work in taking off old wax oil etc. Thanks :-)
Then I was left with this piece of shit:
Other side not much better:
Not much left of the original panel work - so off came the lhs wing.

Some DPO had his own idea about bodywork, this is how the D-plate and part of inner wing was made like:
You will need a lot of new £££ parts! AND a lot of patience, as its easy to end up with an expensive bonnet, that looks like shit first fitted to the car.

As most new panels are crap copy's, a few original ones always come in handy. Another - original - bonnet to take measures from, is a must!

New D-panels are well made reproductions; but the new copy's of bonnet strengthener panels (original one pictured above - the yellow one is part of some odd stuff bought on ebay, and was just dumped later on) are crap.

Some minutes later with a grinder, and it was looking like this:

As the bonnet nose panel (the one with the sidemarkers/head lamps) was rotten (or more correct: Destroyed by earlier repair!) only at the lower part, I went for a repair panel (side markers).

New wings bought from James Paddock a year ago, was a good fit though. Had to open up the head light mounting ring and nose panel as part of the wing is sandwiched between.

Some important measures...

Trial fit of new wing

And some measures - should make about an inch here.

From here on, I have to remount the bonnet support.
To keep costs down, I am going for a repair on the inner wings - more to come...

Old puk

2010-04-24T09:15:00.010Z

Dette indlæg er om min TSV (triumph support vehicle), så det bliver på dansk i stedet.
Det er en aldrende Peugeot 309, 1,4 med det berygtede BOSCH Mono Jetronic 2.2 "indsprøjtningsanlæg". Bilen var billig - købt for 22K for 8-10 år siden med ca. 110.000 km på tælleren, og har fragtet mig 200.000 km uden meget andet end lidt service på bremser, tandrem og tænding - og så 3 stk trækaksler (og en bærearm, jeg crashede ved at køre over en dårlig afdækket kloak). ...Og en stump udstødning i ny og næ...

Det bedste ved den er, at den nemt præsterer en parkering oven på en isblok eller halvt inde i en hæk - og det er lige som om, at pladserne rundt om den forbliver de sidste andre optager! Og så behøver den ikke blive vasket i tide og utide.

MEN i løbet af denne vinter røg først tomgangen - og kort tid efter begyndte den at tabe pusten, hver gang man trykkede på gaspedalen. Ikke altid lige betryggende.

Da den er "uden synlig rust" (som bilhandlerne plejer at udtrykke det) og mekanisk i god stand, skulle den have en chance. Jeg vidste, at gasspjældspotentiometeret var dårligt - og sandsynligvis årsagen. Den har haft den fejl siden køb - med konstant lys i motorlampen og fejlkode 33 (=gasspjælds-potentiometer). Desværre er indsprøjtningsanlægget en samlet enhed, og BOSCH sælger ikke potentiometeret separat. Og fejlen indtil i vinters ikke værre end til at leve med.
Jeg har tidligere set, at en kinesisk fabrik annoncerede dem, men kravet var en minimum ordre på 500 stk - og dét var lige i overkanten.

NU er det så endelig lykkedes at finde en kopi (takket være Nikolajs Google-færdigheder!) - ca. 300 kr. inkl. levering fra Tyskland - nederst på link: http://www.autosensorberlin.com/index.php/cat/c37_Peugeot.htmlOG så er den nem at montere - selve armen med slæbesko lod jeg sidde - sko blev dog vippet lidt udad for at sikre en god kontaktflade.
Sikke en forandring - ud over nu at give korrekt speederrespons og gå normalt i tomgang, er den blevet mindst 10 år yngre!

Forhåbentlig holder den nu det sidste halve år til næste syn - til den tid er det nok slut med 309'eren.

Playing with acid

2010-03-16T08:45:00.003Z

Cleaning up the body tub. Originally I was going to get it sand blasted, but as most (all!) outer panels are new, I believe its waste of money. But cleaning up the remains of surface rust and old sealer is still not my cup of tea.

Worst part is the front bulkhead between MC and battery box. Trying to clean it with phosphor acid. Don't drink this at home...

Rear seat pan - still need some cleaning up from welds and old sealer.

HELP! Spit on the wall!

2010-02-16T18:11:00.004Z

Body tub nearly finish - just need a good rub down (...) - to remove all surface corrosion, dirt and some minor grinding to get rid of some welds.
Now resting at the wall after a major surgery.

Frame damage

2010-02-07T14:10:00.004Z

Bought a new frame for the spitfire, but far from perfect. Will need a new lhs outrigger, and some minor welding to the front.

My friend Nick has started with removing all old sealer, waxoil and 40 years of all sorts of road dirt. Although it must have been re-paintet more than once in the past, time hasn't been kind to it. It was originally connifer green, then red all over.

Body tub still need a little welding to the front and a major cleaning.

Sonic cleaning...

2010-02-07T13:52:00.003Z

Started cleaning carbs - has four or five complete set of SU 1,25'' in the shed in sad conditions...

Result: You will have to wait a week, before I can take more pictures.

All link hardware etc has been send off for electro plating.

Getting closer...

2010-02-05T11:39:00.007Z

This was what the rear of the body tub was looking like 3 years ago. Slow progress. I know!
But can see the end of welding know, just need some tiding up, and ... some major surgery on the bonnet.
Body tub still upside down - so time to finish welding to the underside.

Repair needed to part of the box section behind the heel board. Doesn't look as nice as the repair done to the other side, but its fully welded in and made as a complete repair section.

Still need to drill some holes not to make it a water trap and to make a small repair on the wheel arch at the front/B-post. Rear part done.

Creating a rust trap

2010-01-27T12:08:00.005Z

Creating a rust trap - just as the factory did original. But sealed well, its a nicer solution I believe.

Still need some work before it can be welded in.
If you can't see what it is, its the rear lower finisher. Body tub resting upside down - very easy to clean off old sealer, rust and wax oil. And finishing all welding to the floors and box section behind the heel board.

Parts for sale

2010-01-09T13:32:00.003Z

Surplus etc:
For mk 4/1500 spitfire:
- Heater/varmeapparat. Good condition.
- Boot lid/bagklap. Good condition, minor well made rust repair done to right inner corner/mindre veludført reparation indvendigt i højre hjørne.
- Wiper motor/viskermotor 2-speed, as new cond./som ny.
- Front inner weel arch, NOS/Stanpart panel for spitfire mk 4/1500/Front inderste inderskærm. Original NOS Stanpart / BL panel, som idag kun fås som repro til ca. 50 pund i UK. Venstre side, inderst (ind mod motor).

For mk 1/2/3 spitfire:
- Original Ashley bonnet, good condition, minor repair needed to gelcoad/Original Ashley fronthjelm - enkelte smårevner. Der følger skærmforøgere med.
- Complete steering for RHD spitfire - used./komplet tandstang til højrestyret spitfire. Brugt.
- Ashley hardtop complete with perplex windows etc. Need some TLC/ Ashley hardtop ("gt6-look-alike), inkl. vinduesglas og original "hattehylde". Skal have ny himmel, males og forsynes med nye gummilister mv.

For free: (see picture below) Body tub from mk 4/1500 spitfire, but with a mk 1/2/3 firewall welded on. For parts, if you have a very rusty firewall on your round tail spitfire, or is in need of rain gutters for your 1500-spitfire project/ Komplet karosse fra 1500 spitfire, men med en torpedo fra mk 1/2/3 påsvejset. God som doner i tilfælde af rust ved ruderammebefæstigelse mv. Gratis.

For free: Frame from 1500 spitfire, good condition. Need new bonnet hinge pivot boxes (as the original ones are missing)/Ramme fra 1500 spitfire, god stand. Skal have nye pivot bokse monteret, da de oprindelige er skåret væk. Kan bruges til tidlig spitfre også.

Kontakt Jens: jmhaugaard - gmail.com

The Estate has landed...

2010-01-02T18:56:00.007Z

First impression...
Mk 1 Estate with a mk 2 instrument panel. But very well done, although not all wood panels are matching. 2500 mk 2 leather seats, but front seats in need of work.

All doors and hatch look fine, by first look I couldn't find any signs of welding done...
Muhahaha.
Car is hand painted. Will need a complete respray. Arches looks fine and original; but still need a closer inspection...

Seller did leave the radiator in the boot, as he only wanted engine and gearbox. Original carpets (or from another estate...)
Some welding done to the rhs rear arch. Need some work now, but no real rust.
Rust damage.
Lots of new parts fitted.

Couldn't see any welding done to the doors, but lhs front door sticking out at the bottom.

Front damage.
More shiny parts.

Evidence of earlier repair on the front panels? Looking like some one did put a new nose cone on.
History of the car: The Estate was rebuilded during approx 10 years with a lot of s/h parts, but was never given a respray (its hand painted by now!) The one who did the rebuild died about a year (?) ago and the car was sold on to the one, who had the accident and insurance write off. Its been Danish all life. Insurance company sold the car on to Bent Nielsen, who needed the engine and box for a TR rebuild - but was kind to offer me the shell and paperwork; as its still possible to re register the car.

New toy!

2009-12-03T16:21:00.004Z

Always wanted one of those, but very rare in Denmark - danes voted for Volvos and Fords those days...
Now this is mine, with very friendly help from the seller (Bent Nielsen of www.ben-biler.dk).
Need some front surgery. An engine and gearbox. And a new import tax, as its an insurance write off. But saved from scrapping.

Need to finish two complete Spitfire rebuilds before I can start with this one. More pics after Christmas :-)

Upside down

2009-12-01T13:37:00.003Z

Progress on the vreck: Cleaning up the underside and welding the rear wheel arches and box section behind heel board panel.

Strange Spit!

2009-12-01T12:47:00.004Z

Bought this Spitfire mainly for parts. Rear tub is from a late square tail, front bulkhead from an early mk 1/2/3. To far gone, but with a complete FD engine and a late spitfire diff and drive shafts. And lots of parts - driveshafts, front suspensions etc... :-)

Engine II

2009-08-25T19:49:00.005Z

Started reassembling the small crank 1300 spitfire engine for my other mk 3 spitfire. Nice and shiny it is :-)
Did use a little sealer for the center core plug as the old one here just did drop out due to rust.

Did the small one at the rear with some sealer too as this is hidden behind the rear plate.

Then in with the distributor bush, that I did take out to make sure center oilway was clean (it wasn't!)

When mounted, you can se the small hole in the bush oiling the oil pump shaft.

Time for having the crank polished and fully ballanced. Need to weld trigger wheel to front pulley first though. Will leave it with a picture of one shiny OD box with painted alu bell housing.

BLING!

Bling!

2009-08-25T19:39:00.003Z

Welded up the left side dash panel. Not finished yet - but getting closer... Its a complicated repair - and still need some attention. Then - a fine skim of filler and you would not be able to see what it was looking like a month ago.

Above: Had to replace both outer and inner part about 5 inches down from the top.

Still need to weld up hole from radio antenna. Was hidden behind filler, chewing gum and, chicken wire, concrete ...

Nice and shiny

2009-08-08T14:57:00.003+01:00

Finaly - got some quality time in the workshop :-)

Above the remains of lhs dash top scuttle/front deck panel...

Worst place do to do a correct repair on these cars imho

Boxing around gearbox

2009-07-05T20:18:00.002+01:00

Alu bellhousing cleaned, new bearing fitted and all working smooth...

Have used a set of Chic Doig's modified Fulcrum Pivot Pin. Old clutch fork was just held in place with a bolt from right side outrigger (quick fix!)

Above - rebuilded 3 rail (spitfire mk 4) gearbox with OD...

New block. FD/GE prefix; overbore +20. Cleaned, ready for all the new bits...

Couldn't find anything else than County pistons; will see how they behave. The compagny, that did the rebore thought they were "usable"...

Had to use county cam bearings too - but far better in quality as expected.

Ready for some new core plugs.

Devils work - mad welders repair :-)

2009-06-12T11:12:00.003+01:00

Finished repair on the right hand side windscreen base, just need some welding at the a-post further down to stop rot between the inner and outher a-post panel... Then I have to do the same operation on the left side, although not as damaged as this.

Still need to close the hole from aerial?...

Engine rebuild - preparing parts...

2009-05-26T21:23:00.003Z

Did send off a GE (same as FD, spitfire mk 3) engine block for a rebore to +0.020''. All parts cleaned and inspected - new oil seal fitted on the rear plate

Moooooooving on...

2009-05-26T21:08:00.002Z

Finished off the repair on the right hand side rear wheel arch. Just need outer wheel arch fitted, but will have to wait ontil after shot blast of body tub.

What I did not look forward to do: Repair on windscreen base and A-post.

2009-04-05T06:44:00.000Z

Radiator boards

2009-04-01T08:29:00.002Z

Not my drawing; did find this somewhere on the tinternet - if Yours, please forgive I have published it here. Keep the cars alive ;-)

MC area repair part II

2009-03-06T09:49:00.002Z

Some minor differences - repropanels.... Should work though.

Just need cleaning, sanding and 2 x support brackets welded in. And welding along the front. Although it doesn't look straight at the rear edge (the picture), it is! But will require some minor filler to make it perfect.

MC area repair part I

2009-02-27T15:51:00.002Z

Trial fit: Edge at the front need repair before final welding in.

Boxing box III

2009-02-27T15:46:00.001Z

Just need a good sand blast, some paint - a little filler - and a good sealer :-)

Boxing battery box part II

2009-02-21T20:00:00.003Z

Repair on the lower edge/left side. Will get a sand blast and a little filler; should be like new then. Or close enough!

Did have to tweek the edge of the new battery box - otherwise like the original one. Just no noles ;-)

Just need to weld it in now.

Boxing battery box...

2009-02-20T13:14:00.002Z

Let the fight begin...

Nasty, right?

New box is a well made copy of the original. Beware of differences on LHD & RHD cars (it's the drain).

Made in Sri Lanka...

2009-02-18T22:24:00.003Z

Couldn't find a LHD repair panel in the UK for my LHD spitfire mk 3 rebuild, so thanks - a company in Denmark are making some stuff for the morris range - and have done this repair panel for the Spitfire; they get all the stuff done on a local company they own on Sri Lanka.

Did I say LHD ? Yes. It's for a LHD......

It looks good quality for the money - about £22 +vat (25%)

Buy it here:http://www.morrisminor.dk/ Partnr. 813944A (http://www.morrisminor.dk/Spitfire_cat/spitfire_14_e.htm)

Scrap scrap scrap

2009-02-12T13:48:00.003Z

Some one had their own ideas about body repair by welding home made repair sections over rusted original panels, sometimes cutting the originals and sometimes not.

The less sad about the actual welding the better...

measures...

2009-01-26T19:28:00.002Z

Wouldn't trust the 116 cm (remains of old crashpad...) Rest is equal to my other mk 3 spit.

Underseal scrapping man :-)

2009-01-24T10:36:00.003Z

Nick has started scrapping underseal and junk out of the "new" bonnet bought for the resto-project; as I have decided to rebuild this car to about "original" spec. (I am gonna sell it...)

Someone did a brave "repair"job on this; never seen anything that ugly. In need of new wings, D-panels and some repair on the nose panels. Wheel arches can be saved.

The Lemans-look-alike bonnet that came with the car will be used on another project ....

Silly tweak and fiddling...

2009-01-22T10:05:00.003Z

Trial fit of right rear wing and right side sill. Need a lot of tweaking; door gap too big at the top of B-post. Forced the dog-leg a few mm backwards.

Just need to refit sill, press rear wing futher down a few mm at the b-post top, make sure there is aprox 19 mm between the lock panel "bulk" and wing. Then weld it all in.

still alive...

2008-11-25T20:23:00.002Z

Just a few pics showing slooooooow progress...

Btw - old repropanels are SHIT!

Bonnet repair

2008-09-15T11:12:00.009Z

Rusted out spitfire mk 3 bonnet - did this for some years ago. Should have trashed it, but good bonnets not available in this part of the world :-/

Some pics here - from this:

To this:

Cessna 182

2008-06-06T10:26:00.000+01:00

sill cut through

2008-05-15T09:07:00.001Z

New arrival

2008-04-04T17:04:00.005Z

Bought this bodytub complete with a frame, gt6 mk2-bonnet, boot lid, doors and window frame. No paper on unfortunately. Tatty on the pic, but only in need of outer sill and repair on the wings and some minor issues in the floors.
The frame is the best one I have ever seen. The gt6-bonnet is NOT!

Might create a new blog for this one once I decide what to do with it! Some one got some papers for a late mk 3 spit (1970) :-)

More work: Lower b-post repair

2008-04-04T08:47:00.002Z

Lower b-post repair. Fully welded in.From inside of car; just a few welds here. Repair of heel board panel became a bit tweeked in the corner, but not a big problem here.Radius arm mounting bracked welded in. Needed minor repairs too. Before I remove the rest of the outer sill, I will weld in the new inner sill to make sure dorgab will remain the korrect size. Normal procedure would be to start with the floor though.

Heel board

2008-03-17T12:36:00.002Z

Repair of heel board panel. Just need the bracked for the radius arm mount. Box secton behind the heel board in need of attention too!

Too thin - too fat!

2008-03-04T07:57:00.003Z

Before welding in the new right hand rear wing, I have to do all repair on the heel board and lower b-post/inner sill. Had to remove the radius arm bracked; its heavely damaged but will be reused with some new metal welded in. Picture showing lower half of the right hand section of the heel board after beeing cut away. Problem with new "Heritage Inner Sill" - its aprox 1/4'' too thin and aprox 1/2'' too long!! Might not be visable on the picture, but old original one is 'more fat' than the new - and you risk getting the doorgab too long at the bottom if not taking great care! Remains of the outer sill still inplace, so here all measures should be fine. Will have to check with the door on anyway.

Welding in new NOS drain gutter panel - ebay will be your friend here. Bought the last one James Paddock had on the shelfs. Now NLA!

Finaly decided to cut away the outer inner wing and bought a repair section instead of trying to repair the rusted out lip as I did on the left hand side. Easyer but more expensive :-)

dressed

2008-02-04T11:10:00.000Z

Trial fit of new rear wing.

Still need to fix lower b-post and heelboard before I can weld in the new wing. Bought a repair panel for the outer wheel arch from another triumphowner he had left over from rebuilding a gt6 mk 2.

No sun

2008-01-24T20:28:00.000Z

Inner wing rot!

Final welds on new floor pan

Heel board panel - in need of some attention too...

Got this old Steelcraft floor pan; will use it on the right hand side. The body tub will be sand blasted anyway, so don't mind some surface rust at the moment.

Naked spit

2008-01-10T07:42:00.000Z

Cutting off right rear wing and drain channel; both was damaged by an accident somehow earlier in this sad cars life. Although looking ugly, it’s not that bad – need repair on the lower b-post (don’t they all…) and a new outer wheel arch and wing. And a new drain channel. And some repair to… And…

Floooooooooooooor!

2007-12-09T20:36:00.000Z

Drivers side floor, sill strengthener and outer sill welded in. Notice; inner sill didn't have the correct high in the middle; its upper flange is shaped like a banana. Must have been short of metal as it came in the press form. Up to ¼ inch missing. Therefore the top of the sill strengthener is visible. Never had problem whith these repro inner panels before (genuine not available).

Still need some grinding, where I had to use the mig welder. A few other patches - and the main repair on the driver side has finished.

Dust to dust

2007-11-08T11:25:00.000Z

Welding in new rear wing and rear valance

2007-11-01T09:55:00.000Z

Repair on the outer wheel arch - not a beauty - but saved some £ for a repair panel - that never fit. Didn't use the NOS panel bought via eBay as only the outer lip needed some new metal welded in.

Rest of the pics showing the new 'Rover' OE rear wing after final welding in. Had to tweak it quite a lot; started at the rear bottom and did continue round the rear light panel and the wheel arch. Still need welding the light panel though.

Used a spot welder - on most part of the new wing, easy - and less messy

Panel fit between new wing and NOS door.

Slow progress

2007-10-17T11:20:00.000Z

Didn't buy a complete lower A-post panel, made this one instead:

Welded in. Still need to weld in the sill strengthener. Notice; inner sill didn't have the correct high in the middle; its upper flange is shaped like a banana. Must have been short of metal as it came in the press form. Up to ¼ is missing.
Closer look at the new lower A-post panel welded in. Important to take measurements of the position of the entire bulkhead and dash-panel, as it can sag seriously without showing this at the panel gab around the doors. But the bulkhead/bonnet gab will increase.

Repair on left side lower B-post - and more fleeeebay

2007-10-05T10:58:00.000Z

Repair on the left side lower B-post. Just have to finish the repair on the outer wheel arch and the A-post inner sill - and I can weld on the new rear wing, sill reinforcement and outer sill. Oh, forgot the bottom of the B-post assembly - in need of repair or replacement too...

Bought this one from a ebay seller in UK for £75. It's for a late spitfire mk 3 (due to the small holes at the rear). Have already done most of the repair on the inner wing, but will help with the measure on the lip at the wheel arch to rear wing joint.

more part one million

2007-07-18T09:40:00.001Z

Fixing new inner sill - left a small part of the lower a-post panel in place to make sure it will be correct fitted (did take a measure though).

New floor pan welded in temporary - will be fully welded along the edge later.

welding in new floor pan and inner sill... part one million

2007-07-18T07:18:00.000Z

Just a few pics to show the progress...

more stu**d fleeabey bargins

2007-07-18T07:06:00.000Z

Bought this off fleebay - don't know yet as if I am going to replace the entire panel or just juse it as a template to beat out the deformations of the old... but nice to have the posibility!

Fleebay bargin

2007-07-06T08:58:00.000Z

Got this from a US dealer, had to pay $100 to get it to Europe/Denmark. Was damaged before I bought it, but nothing seriously. NOS left hand door for a spitfire mk 3.

Front box section repair:

2007-07-05T12:23:00.000Z

A new one was more than I was prepared to pay. Earlier pattern ones needed the strengthners from the old ones too - so I decided to repair what was left of the old one:

Old floor our ... cont.

2007-07-05T11:50:00.000Z

Heel board panel needed some repair behind the radius arm bracket. Box section nearly non existend.

Old floor out - new on the way in

2007-07-05T10:56:00.000Z

Boot floor in. Need final welding. I will wait with the rear valance until the rear wings are ready to get a nice fit at the rear valance/rear wing joints.

After cutting out old floor this is the result: New floor pan needs reshaping.

Remains of lower A-post panel. Will be patched up. No repro panel needed although both a repair panel and the entire lower A-post panel is available from the normal sources.
B-post: Need some repair too.

Boot progress... sort of

2007-03-07T09:49:00.000Z

Started cutting out rust damage on the top of the rear seat pan assembly. Welded in small patches of new metal - still wonder how it will turn out when it all gets gritblasted in a while.

Still need to do a small amount of repair on the right side wheel arch before I can weld in the new boot floor and tackweld the new rear valance in place.

More welding

2007-02-09T09:45:00.000Z

Started repair of the inner wheel arch. It was in need of a new lower edge. Did a lot of measurements on my friends spitfire, trial fit of the new (hmm - lets say: Unused!) boot floor and rear valance to make sure everything did line up as it should. Here tack welded in place

Had to weld in a new clamp for the rear valance - be carefull - the rear valance is supposed to rest on it. The original one just droped off as I removed the original panel.

Lots of new metal needed!

Damage on the lower edge
After cutting away most of the rotted lower edge, a repair panel was made and welded in:

Right side wheel arch looks better; but has suffered from an accident earlier; its not in the correct shape. Needs hammering out - my favorit tool

Cutting out lower part of right side rear inner wing and using a repair section bought off fleebay some time ago. Need a good clean of the surface, otherwise fine.

Shot from - hmm - outside...

Here just a picture to show some of the damage on the top of the rear wing. Something heavy must have been droped here.

Big mouth

2007-02-01T12:10:00.000Z

Did cut off rear valance, part of right hand rear wing, left hand inner wing etc...

Left side inner wheel arch completely gone at the rear lower edge; but the rest has survived.

Easy to make a patch on this:
Right side better at the lower edge - and the rest is in a fair condition too. Some remains from the boot floor to be removed first.

Just like the left side, the right rear inner wing has suffered from a massive attack. Evidence of an accident behind the rear lamp panel too; part of the rear inner wing is looking like a harmonica.

Got the lower repair section off "fleebay" - will use it here (from the marked line and down).

Anyway - there are lots of damage on the entire inner wing as shown on the next sad pics. The extend of damage is on the rear wing, not the inner wheel arch:

Finaly did cut out the remains of the rear valance. Although damaged from an accident far earlier in this sad cars life, right side drain channel seems to be in fair condition.

Still - need to do some repair at the lower edge of the rear deck - and above the body mounting reinforcement bracked on the same panel.

First new metal ... of a ton

2007-01-26T09:43:00.000Z

Notice the damage to the rear drain channal/rear inner wing... a PO tried to weld it up and fill it with bondo. I have decided to wait getting the tub gritblasted; it costs about £200 for a decent job - and as the tub is getting more or less all original panels replaced - I will wait until most of the welding has been done - and get the entire body metallised - as described here:
http://www.metallisation.com/ (generel)
http://www.jyderup-sandblaeseri.dk/ (danish only, but lots of pics of metallised antique cars!)

Had to cut out a part of the inner rear wing to straighten the drain channel panel out a bit. Then - first part of a ton of new metal has now been welded in - starting with repair on the rear left inner wing. Notice the lower part of the rear valance just sticking out - its so rusty that you can take it off by hand.

Still - lots of work to do on the sad remainings of the drain channel and rear lamp panels.

£££

2007-01-16T08:53:00.000Z

Bought new panels from JamesPaddock.co.uk - new genuine rear wings and new genuine outer sills. There is a Rover Hologram sticker on the inside of all.

Nick - one of my best friends, with whom I am renting the garage (http://triumph-junkie.blogspot.com), has started the dirty work: Wax oil-scrapping!

The entire car was once in the past covered in wax oil, sealer etc – but this didn’t stop the small tin worms in doing their job. Still, it’s not as bad as it looks…

Brased the doors, but the tub is actually quite strong despite the heavely damage. Best of all - doorgabs still good.

Remains of right hand wheel arch, heelboard and box section behiend.

Removing old rear wing - or lets say - whats left of...

2006-12-06T12:02:00.000Z

Before getting the tub sand blasted, I started cutting off the remains of the old rear wing. The boot floor just dropped out (with the help of a hammer...) - leaving the sad remaining of the rear valance and inner wings. Ebay phrase ' a picture ... and 1000000 words' - right?

Picture to the left shows the extend of damage to the upper A-post, and above some of the damage to the rear; lots of welding will be needed here too.

The car has not been running since 1988 - and must have spend a huge amount of time outside since...

I have a spare frame as the original one are past saving. The frame will be modified with an extra cross member later on to add stiffness.

Hello world!

2006-11-30T14:26:00.000Z

This blog will be my diary for the rebuild of this piece of junk: A complete rusted out Triumph Spitfire mk 3 from 1967 - "the wreck" - and I do warn you: This blog is the work of a mad man!

The contents of the blog is solely dedicated to one mission (which in other peoples opinion is close to lunacy) the restoration of a product from the more or less diseased British Motoring Industry.

Pictures of the wreck at purchase…

I will have to face the fact, that this car needs far more than a thorough restoration. It will need new floor pans, new sills, new boot floor and a boot lid!

Among the parts with the car was some old pattern floor pans covering the most of the rear (under the chairs); don’t know if I will use these parts but a new driver side floor pan is on the way from James Paddock in the UK.

The front is a "genuine" Ashley fibre glass, and seems to be in fair condition.

The frame need replacement (its dead!) - but I do already have a spare.

In the next years (hahahaha) I will try to post the progress here regularly - it's mainly for my self , som I do remember when I was hit...